Aqualogica

Illuminate+ Dewy Sunscreen SPF 50+

Completely free of synthetic fragrance.

Hybrid Chemical DominantLotion
42
Needs ReviewOverall Rating
Based on formula analysis

Skin Type Match

38%

Mattifying · Comedogenic · Lightweight

Pros
  • Lightweight breathable feel
  • Controls excess shine
  • High UVB protection
Cons
  • High comedogenic risk
  • Poor UV photostability
  • Severe eye sting
View other sunscreens for Oily Skin

Performance Scores

SPF Level

Excellent

Label claims SPF 50+, which is supported by a dense combination of UVB filters including Octinoxate, Ensulizole, Octisalate, and Bisoctrizole.

Broad Spectrum

Excellent

Ecamsule (peak 344 nm), Avobenzone (peak 357 nm), and Bisoctrizole (peak 360 nm) work synergistically to cover the entire 315-400 nm spectrum.

Sweat Resistance

Poor

Polyester-7 is a high molecular weight aliphatic polyester recognized in cosmetic science as a robust, water-resistant film former.

Photo Stability

Poor

Studies confirm that Octinoxate induces the concomitant photolysis of Avobenzone, rapidly reducing UV protection unless quenched by specific stabilizers like Octocrylene.

Visible Light

Poor

Absence of iron oxides (e.g., CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499) and pigmentary-grade non-white minerals in the ingredient list.

Irritation Risk

High Risk

Propylene glycol is a well-documented penetration enhancer and irritant at higher concentrations, while organic UV filters like avobenzone frequently trigger erythema in compromised skin.

Pore Clogging

High Risk

Dermatological comedogenicity assays, including Fulton's scale, identify marine algae extracts (rated 4-5/5) and the synergistic combination of cetearyl alcohol with ceteareth-20 as having high potential to induce comedogenesis.

White Cast

Low Risk

Bisoctrizole is an insoluble micro-pigment that reflects and scatters UV and visible light, causing mild but observable reflectance on Fitzpatrick IV-VI skin tones.


Ingredients Analysis

Active Filters

Ecamsule ChemicalUVA II / UVA I
Avobenzone ChemicalUVA I / UVA II

Rapidly degrades under UV exposure losing significant UVA protection capacity unless stabilized by other filters.

Octinoxate ChemicalUVB

Studies indicate potential estrogenic and thyroid disrupting activity in animal models and human cell lines.

Bisoctrizole HybridBroad Spectrum UV
Ensulizole ChemicalUVB

In vitro studies suggest it can generate reactive oxygen species upon UV exposure which may lead to cellular damage though real world impact is debated.

Octisalate ChemicalUVB

Clinical trials demonstrate systemic absorption into the bloodstream exceeding the FDA threshold requiring further safety testing.

Key Inactive Ingredients

Water WaterSolvent
Isododecane Oil BasedSolvent
Propylene Glycol GlycolSolvent

Recognized as a frequent cause of allergic contact dermatitis especially in individuals with eczema or compromised skin barriers.

Glycerin GlycerinHumectant
Decyl Glucoside CleansingSurfactant

Named Contact Allergen of the Year in 2017 due to increasing reports of allergic contact dermatitis, though it remains safe and mild for the vast majority of users.

Xanthan Gum GumThickener
Hyaluronic Acid Hyaluronic AcidHumectant
Alpha Arbutin MiscellaneousOther

Restricted in the EU to a maximum concentration of 2 percent in face creams and half a percent in body lotions to minimize potential exposure to hydroquinone [2][12].

Triethanolamine BasepH Adjuster

May react with nitrosating agents in formulations to form nitrosamines which are potential carcinogens.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Fatty Acid EsterEmollient
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer PolymericThickener
Tapioca Starch Mattifying AgentSensory Modifier
Dimethicone SiliconeEmollient
Dicaprylyl Carbonate Synthetic OilEmollient
Cetearyl Olivate NonionicEmulsifier
Sorbitan Olivate NonionicEmulsifier
Cetearyl Alcohol WaxEmollient

Historically rated as mildly comedogenic in animal models but modern dermatological consensus indicates it is unlikely to clog pores in typical cosmetic formulations.

Ceteareth-20 NonionicEmulsifier

As an ethoxylated compound, it may contain trace amounts of 1,4 dioxane and ethylene oxide, which are potential carcinogens formed during the manufacturing process.

Phenoxyethanol PhenoxyethanolPreservative

Generally well tolerated but can cause contact dermatitis or skin irritation in rare cases, particularly in sensitive individuals.

Ethylhexylglycerin MultifunctionalPreservative

Recognized as a rare but emerging cause of allergic contact dermatitis, particularly in leave-on cosmetic products.

Glyceryl Glucoside OtherHumectant
Cyclopentasiloxane SiliconeEmollient

The European Union is restricting this ingredient to a maximum concentration of one tenth of a percent in leave on cosmetics effective June 2027.

Glyceryl Stearate NonionicEmulsifier
Niacinamide VitaminAntioxidant
Biosaccharide Gum-4 Natural PolymerFilm Former
1,2-Hexanediol GlycolSolvent
Wild Berries Botanical ExtractSkin Conditioning
Polyester-7 Synthetic PolymerFilm Former
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate Fatty Acid EsterEmollient
Sodium Polyacrylate PolymericThickener
Sodium Gluconate OtherChelating Agent
Capsicum Annuum Fruit Extract Botanical ExtractSkin Conditioning

May cause skin irritation, erythema, or a warming sensation in sensitive individuals due to the potential presence of capsaicinoids.

Laminaria Digitata Extract Botanical ExtractSkin Conditioning

Algae and seaweed extracts including Laminaria digitata are frequently flagged as pore clogging and may exacerbate breakouts in acne prone skin [1.2].

Cetyl-PG Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide CeramideSkin Conditioning

Subject to EU Cosmetics Regulation Annex III limits on secondary amine impurities to prevent the formation of potential nitrosamines [2.2].

Ceramide EOP CeramideSkin Conditioning
Ceramide NG CeramideSkin Conditioning
Ceramide NP CeramideSkin Conditioning
Ceramide AS CeramideSkin Conditioning
Ceramide AP CeramideSkin Conditioning
Panthenol OtherHumectant
BHT SyntheticAntioxidant

Some animal studies suggest high oral doses may cause endocrine disruption, though regulatory bodies consider it safe at the low concentrations used in cosmetics.

Tocopheryl Acetate VitaminAntioxidant